On a year round basis the bream would likely be the most prolific species in the local area when it comes to angling.

No fibs, there's more bream here than cheese burgers at McDonalds. In the bays and estuaries, catches between 300g and 450g are not uncommon with fish around 900g being taken at regular intervals. The beach will produce larger fish up to 1.5kg. Appearing in greater numbers between May and September, it is suggested to fish any part of the run in tide, top of tide and last two hours of the run out tide in the early morning, late afternoon and night.

Fish around the deep holes and drop offs in the estuaries, rivers and canals while keeping in mind that angling close to mangrove trees and oyster leases will also deliver pleasing results. Gravel, silt and sand bottoms along with rock headwalls make for ideal bream habitats.

Fish the gutters and suck outs at the beach.

Preferential winds will be up to 10 knots coming from either the south, south- east, south-west, east and north-east, with westerlies more suited to the beach. Cloudy to overcast skies and rain all make for excellent weather conditions, with clear skies having justified merit in the deeper water. Drift fishing or fishing at anchor are both suitable practices for bream fishing in the bays and estuaries. A berley of bread, bran or laying pellets used lightly will assist to attract bream to your bait. An old and ongoing debate exists among anglers as to which is the more productive bait. As bream will take a large variety of baits, some of the more commonly used and readily available have been selected. Take your pick between yabbies, blood worms, beach worms, small live baits, fresh fish strips, mullet gut, chicken gut, dough, peeled fresh prawns and pipis or eugaries .

Tip

Recipe: Mix plain flour with a strong smelling cheese such as blue vein and a few drops of tuna oil. Add water and mix together until a firm but pliable consistency is achieved.

Handling

A little respect should be shown when handling bream. Although not overly painful, their dorsal and anal spines can deliver annoying puncture wounds. Hold with a cloth on the underside of the body behind the head.

Rod, Reeels and Rigs

In the bays and estuaries, try a medium to fast taper boat rod to 3m, along with a 125mm or150mm side cast reel or a medium size egg- beater reel capable of 130m of 4kg to 5kg mono. For the beach, balance up a l50mm side cast reel with a surf rod to suit the individual.

How to Catch Bream

In the bays and estuaries drift fish with bait approx. 10m behind dinghy. Strike when the extra weight of a fish is felt on the line. When fishing at anchor, cast into the direction the current is coming from and direct the bait into the deeper water. Take up slack line as current washes bait back towards you. On a snag free bottom repeat action occasionally or let bait sit. If in an area of snags cast towards the deeper water, letting the current wash the bait back into the snags. Let the bait sit until a fish has picked it up. Strike when extra weight is felt on the line. Do not allow any slack line on retrieval.

At the beach, cast to the preferred feeding locations in the gutters and suck outs. Take up slack line and let bait sit. Repeat action if bait returns to the beach. Strike when a bite is felt. Retrieve fish slowly, allowing no slack line.

Although they appear to favour gravel, silt and ribbon weed bottoms, rest assured that good catches have also been made in areas with sandy bottoms. You will locate them along drop offs and banks in the bays and estuaries and around mangroves. Flathead move from the drop offs and deeper water up onto the banks with the incoming tide and vice versa on the outgoing tide. Poddy mullet, blue and white pilchards, yabbies and fresh fish strips are all choice baits while a small minnow with deep or shallow swimming action is the favoured lure. Reputedly growing to a weight of approx. 16kg it is best to expect them between 750g and 1.25kg. Start bragging if you land a 4kg flathead. Winds from the south, south-east and south-west up to ten knots make for ideal conditions. While cloudy and overcast skies are preferred, do not rule out clear or wet conditions. At their finest between October and April, either fish at anchor or drift fish the last two hours of the run out and the first three hours of the run in tides in the early morning or late evening when tides allow.

Rods, Reels and Rigs

Use a medium to fast taper boat rod to three metres combined with either a 125mm or l50mm side cast reel or a medium size egg-beater reel capable of 130m of 4 to 5kg mono.

How to Catch Dusky Flathead

1. Driftfish with bait approx.10m behind your dinghy. Strike when extra weight or tension is detected on your line. Invariably when drifting your hook will catch on weed. This will have the effect of placing more tension on your line. More often than not the hook will pull loose. Experience will teach you the difference between weed and fish.

2. Anchor your dinghy on submerged sand banks approx. 6m in from drop offs. Cast onto the bank in the same direction that the current is flowing from. Allow the current to wash the bait into the drop off and around in front of you forming a half circle. Either let bait sit or repeat action.

3. Lures - Preferably use an egg-beater reel. Cast out and about your selected spot and retrieve at varying speeds. Repeat action. For full on sports action nothing can compete with lures when a dusky has been hooked. Striking with sudden vengeance they will often launch themselves out of the water violently tossing back and forth in a desperate attempt to dislodge the lure. Slack line must not be allowed after hook up has been made. Keeping a tight line reduces the chance of the lure losing grip. Sometimes when a bait is stationary, a flathead will take the bait and lie ''doggo" without giving the slightest hint that it's been hooked. You end up getting a pleasant surprise when you retrieve the line. Yes siree, they'll try to con you.

For safety reasons it is recommended to fish the incoming tides only around the open bars and seaways in our area. All have had and remain capable of major mishaps. Remain alert and keep your wits about you when travelling close to or fishing these areas. The locations given throughout this publication on where to catch fish have all proven to be successful. However, the main purpose of the given locations is for the angler to gain an understanding of the type of environment different species feed in and frequent in regards to deep holes, drop offs, sand banks, gravel bottoms, gutters and suck outs etc. The idea is to store this information to assist you in locating fish in other areas with similar features.

Regularly taken around 330mm they seemingly reach their peak around 450mm. Submerged sandbanks and drop offs in the bays and estuaries make for excellent fishing locations, as well as the gutters and suck outs at the beach.

Leaning towards a family format they group together in small schools. This is good news for the angler, as, if you land one, more usually follow. Yabbies, white pilchards, fresh and live prawns, blood and beach worms, pipis or eugaries and fresh fish strips are useful baits, while a small minnow lure with deep or shallow swimming action is quite effective. Although present all year round their numbers in crease between November and April.

In the bays and estuaries, good fishing can be had for the complete run in tide and is best in the early morning or late evening. A 10 knots wind from either the south, south- east, south-west or north is suitable. No preference is given to either drift fishing or fishing at anchor. At the beach, include a west wind and fish 3 hours either side of the low tide.

Tip

Fresh and live baits will return the best results.

Rods, Reels and Rigs

For the bays and estuaries get yourself a medium to fast taper boat rod to 3m and saddle it up with either a 125mm or 150mm side cast reel or a medium size egg-beater reel capable of 130m of 4kg to 5kg mono. At the beach use a good quality surf rod, to suit the individual, balanced to a150mm to 175mm side cast reel.

How to Catch Sand Flathead

When fishing the bays and estuaries, anchor dinghy on or near submerged sandbanks. Cast over sand bank and let sit, or retrieve slowly and repeat, or cast towards the direction the current is coming from and allow the bait to wash around with the current into the drop offs. Strike when extra weight is felt on line. This method can also be used at the beach. When drift fishing let the bait travel about 10m behind your dinghy. If weed is encountered the bait should be checked at regular intervals, as the weed can tend to drag the bait off the hook. Experience will teach you the difference between a fish and the drag of weed. Strike when a fish is detected. Retrieve fish with a landing net.

Lures

Cast around selected spot and retrieve at various speeds. Repeat action.

Handling

Take care. Sharp barbs are located near the gill covers. Use a thick cloth such as an old T-
shirt or heavier and grip firmly around the body.

When these blokes are running hot you'll be bagging fish faster than James Packer can make money.

This species is present all year round, but September to March is more productive for summer whiting in our bays and estuaries. At the beach the summer whiting is very common, at the afore mentioned time of year. They enjoy a good feed of nippers, fresh blood worms, fresh prawns, beach worms and pipis or eugaries. In the bays and estuaries summer whiting are regularly taken between 230mm and 300mm. Down at the beach the summer whiting is more consistent around the 230mm mark and occasionally turn up around 400mm.

Clear, cloudy or overcast skies are all suitable to summer whiting. Sand and gravel bottoms in the bays and estuaries are favourites of this species and weed patches are frequently visited. Suss out the gutter and suck out formations at the beach. Fish the beach for the last three hours of the run out and the first three hours of the run in tides during the daylight hours. The bays and estuaries are very productive on the last two hours of run out and all of the run in tide during the daytime.

Wind preference is for 10 knots from either the south, south-east, east or north- east for all locations, with a westerly being 0K for the beach.

In the calmer inland waters take your pick between drift fishing or fishing at anchor. No guide has been indicated by better catches using either method.

How to Catch Whiting

In the bays and estuaries they will accept a still or moving bait. When drift fishing, select a course that will take the bait up and over drop offs and across the submerged sand banks or vice versa, depending on the current and wind direction. Allow bait to travel approx 10m behind your dinghy.

When on the bite, these fish will basically hook themselves. Strike firmly when a bite is felt. If fishing at anchor is decided upon, either cast about the area and retrieve line slowly or let bait move around with the current until final resting position is found. Keep hold of rod at all times and ensure line is kept firm. Strike when a bite is indicated. Although they are harmless it is suggested to use a cloth and hold the fish at rear of head when handling.

With beach fishing summer whiting relish a moving bait. Cast upstream of the current towards either the inner or outer edge of the gutter and let the bait wash around in front of you, slowly retrieving any slack line that is shown. When bait has finished the wash around and becomes stationary, retrieve bait and repeat action. Try different spots along the gutter until fish are located. Strike on first indication of a bite. When the current is not running, cast as far as possible onto the outer submerged sand bank and slowly retrieve line. A slow retrieve will be about 2m of line per minute. Try in different spots until fish are located.

When using the slow retrieval method, it is recommended to bring the rod tip around from in front of you, a 90 degree arc to the side of you, then slowly retrieve the line as you bring the rod tip back to it's original position in front of you, keeping a firm line at all times. Strike when a bite is first felt.

Rods, Reels and Rig

For the bays and estuaries, a classic slow taper boat rod to 3m, with sloppy action, fitted to a medium size egg-beater reel capable of 250m of 3kg mono or a 125mm side cast reel, is adequate for the purpose. For the beach, balance up a 100mm to l50mm side cast reel with a light surf rod to suit the individual.

Fair dinkum I can't imagine the angler who'd throw away their rod after the exhilaration of landing a big jewie. The utter thrill of a reel blazing away faster than Wyatt Earps six-shooters as the fish strips line off reel quicker than a team of galloping horses has got to be hard to beat. Sorry to say, but this isn't an everyday happening in our area and one must be prepared to wait in hope for those endless hours for the big one to come along and take the bait. The key word here is patience, and heaps of it, when going after big jewfish. Of course, like a lot of things there are exceptions to the rule.

Locally jewfish fall into 3 categories, "Soapies" to around 3kg, "Schoolies" to 9kg approx. and "Adults" 9kg and over. Schoolies and adults are considered to be superior eating but soapies still make for a good feed even though the flesh is not quite as firm or tasty. They attain a weight of over 50kg and a body length around 2m. In our local bays and estuaries, shout yourself a glass of "body cleansing ale" if you land a 13kg. plus jewfish, but to avoid disappointment, keep your expectations in the more common 1kg. to 4kg. range. The beach however, will produce larger jewies than the bays and estuaries with 10kg. plus fish turning up quite frequently. They will indulge in a range of baits such as nippers, live garfish, herrings, poddy mullet, fresh squid, fresh fish strips, bunches of blood and beach worms and lures. If you're chasing the big ones at the beach, don't be afraid to use a live legal size tailor or mullet. A good way to secure a live fish bait to a hook, is to pass the hook through the body just under the dorsal fin, take care not to penetrate the backbone or the live bait will die.

July to January will be the best time of the year and assisting winds up to 15 knots will come from the south, south-east, south-west and east for both beach and estuary fishing, while a west wind is
also good for the beach, in our area. All sky conditions and rain are suited to jew fishing, but it must be kept in mind that superior results will be achieved by fishing from the late afternoon through to the early morning.

How to Catch Jewfish

Different traits exist in the manner in which a large or small jewfish will take a bait. Large jew are likely to behave in the following pattern, especially when a live bait is used. The first indication of a jews presence is usually a series of heavy bumps, followed by a slight vibration of the line as the jew mouths the bait. Shortly after a series of 1m. to 2m. runs will be made with the fish dropping the bait at the end of each run. At this stage no attempt should be made to strike. Ensure the drag mechanism is set lightly and feed approx.1m. of line to the bait at the end of each run, being careful not to disturb the bait. Eventually the fish will take the bait whole heartedly and gather speed rather rapidly. Wait 5 seconds after this run starts then strike in a firm flowing fashion to set the hook.

After hook up, the fish will take off faster than Christoper Skase, making one blistering run and taking anything up to 100m of line with it. Set the drag a little heavier but under breaking strain of line to assist with tiring the fish. At runs end the fish will normally turn back towards you. Use a slow pumping action of the rod and retrieve line slowly, as the fish will usually make at least two more less violent runs. After these initial runs the fish will usually come to you quite placidly and turn belly up. Use a landing net or gaff to retrieve fish.

With smaller jew, what sometimes appears to be a small bream picking at the bait, could in fact be a small jew mouthing a nipper or worm. Don't strike until the fish picks up the bait and runs. Adjust drag to firm and retrieve fish.

In the bays and estuaries, look for the deep holes with sand, gravel or rock bottoms, they are excellent locations for jewfish, especially at the bottom of the tide.Cast out and let bait sit.

At the beach, you'll be looking for the gutter and suck out formations. Fish these from the late afternoon to early morning on any part of the tide, provided there is sufficient water depth, say 2m. Cast to selected spot. If current is running parallel to the beach, follow the bait along the length of the gutter at the same pace that the bait is travelling, or if no current is running let the bait rest. If wave motion returns your bait to the beach, repeat the casting action. Alternatively where a suck out formation exists, cast your bait into deep water and let the current hold your bait out.

Handling

Jewfish are quite safe to handle. Use a cloth and hold around the body. It is suggested to bleed jew as soon as possible after capture.

Rods, Reels and Rig

In the bays and estuaries a light to medium taper boat rod to 3m equipped with a l50mm side cast reel or a medium to heavy duty egg-beater reel capable of 250m of 8kg mono will be suited to the purpose. It is recommended to fish at anchor. For the beach, a good quality surf rod to suit the individual, balanced up with a175mm side cast reel is adequate.

In the surf it is not uncommon for large jewfish to hunt in pairs, so if you land one don't rest up like my mate Dougie, get another bait back in, you just might pick up another one and really have something to skite about.

Lures

Although lures aren't highly recommended, try around the deep holes and bridges in the bays and estuaries. At the beach try the channels and suck outs. Cast out and retrieve at various speeds.

You will locate them on ribbon weed banks in the bays and estuaries. Growing to around 350mm the run of the mill size will be about 225mm. Winds between 0 and 10 knots from all directions are suited to gar fishing while all sky conditions with the possible exception of rain are acceptable. Best time of the year seems to be from August to November. All daylight hours have proven to be successful. A certain amount of decorum is required when handling garfish. They are considerably safe but have a bad habit of excreting when handled, therefore it is wise to remain alert. Hold with a cloth by the top side of the body, just behind the head and aim the underside of the body towards the water. The use of an apron is advisable. Fishing at anchor is by far the wisest choice to make.

Rods, Reels and Rig

Most suited in the rod department will be a classic slow taper boat rod to three metres with sloppy action, united with your choice of a centre pin reel, a 100mm or 125mm side cast reel or a medium size egg-beater reel capable of 250m by 3kg mono.

Bait

As garfish have a very small mouth it is best to cut baits of a size just large enough to cover the hook tip. Preparation or cutting up of a variety of baits in advisable. Favourable baits will include small pieces of prawn, small pieces of dough, small pieces of squid and small pieces of bacon fat.

Tip

Recipe: Mix plain flour with water until a firm but pliable consistency is achieved.

How to Catch Garfish

Anchor close to, but not on top of, submerged ribbon weed banks. Lay a light berley trail of finely chopped breadcrumbs or a lightly dampened mixture of bran, pollen and breadcrumbs. The concept is to have the berley floating on top of the water towards the weed banks. Cast float and bait in the direction of the berley trail drift, hand feed line off reel to keep pace with the berley. Light splashes and swirls observed around berley and bait will indicate the presence of fish.
Once berley has attracted fish near to you use only enough berley to hold fish in the area ie. do not over berley. When fish take the bait the float will turn to either side, stand upright or submerge.
If any of these actions occur raise tip of rod and strike firmly. After hook up, garfish may attempt to leave the water trying to dislodge the hook, so keep your line tight during retrieval. When hand feeding out the line keep the rod tip aimed directly at the float.

Preparation

For whole gar, scale fish, open gut cavity and remove contents. At this stage a black membrane will be visible in the gut cavity. This membrane tastes bitter and is best removed with either a nail brush or tooth brush. Rinse in salt water. To butterfly fillet garfish, follow the above procedure and place fish on a cutting board with the gut cavity flaps facing outwards. Expose backbone with a knife and using a rolling pin or bottle roll down the length of the fish with sufficient downward pressure to separate backbone.

One of the prettiest sights to be had in fishing is seeing the sheer beauty of the Hairtail as it emerges from the cool depths into the view of the angler.

This long, sleek, flat-bodied animal is a real treat to see as its bluish green chrome plated frame slices through the water displaying its almost transparent fins and shapely whip like tail. However that's where the beauty ends as one look into its evil open mouth and the sight of the sabre type, needle sharp teeth is ample to knock caution into the bravest of anglers.

It's a bit hard to understand the habits of the Hairtail, as even though they are a highly social type species that form into huge schools, it would appear that they are not always that fond of each other, turn into cannibals at the blink of the eye, and chew huge chunks out of each other.

When Hairtail are at peace and not biting the crap out of each other, they have a true love of small live yellowtail, silver biddy's, garfish, fresh fish strips of mullet mackerel, tuna and tailor as well as whitebait and W.A. pilchards. Crustaceans and shellfish also form part of the diet.

When on the move they will swim in the horizontal, whilst, when stopping for lunch, they appear to favor eating in the vertical position.

Although specimens around 2 metres and 5.5kg can be had, you'll find their more common around 1.5m and 2kg. Although taken by trawlers in our off-shore waters it appears they have a tendency to favor the deeper holes when entering the rivers, bays, harbours and estuaries of the region. Unfortunately, very little research has been carried out on the Hairtail and the thoughts in this 'article are based on the observations of amateur anglers. They are known to have visited parts of Australia from far north Queensland around to W.A., but only a few spots between Newcastle and Port Kembla can, in the main, be relied upon to produce the 'goods on a regular basis.

In the estuary the strong preference is to fish the high tide from around dusk and through to mid morning.

The general consensus of opinion is that the deep cool water is a must and locating the depth they are feeding at is of the utmost importance. As a rough rule of thumb they will be feeding anywhere from 1.2m from the bottom through to the mid water mark, however, they have been taken at the surface with a lure in the daylight hours.

Hairtail are definitely at their peak from late February to August approx. Unfortunately a boat is pretty much a necessity if you're after Hairtail. Fishing with either a hand line or rod and reel are both acceptable practices.

How to Catch Hairtail

Anchor boat in selected spot. Lower bait into water and either let bait sink to the bottom and slowly retrieve until a bite is felt, or slowly lower the bait until it hits bottom and retrieve line at a rate of 1.5m at various intervals until a bite is felt and their feeding depth is indicated. Once correct depth is found, a piece of wool can be tied to the mainline at a point that will let you know when you have reached the productive depth when the bait goes back down.

Usually the first indication of a Hairtail is a gentle tugging of the line as the fish mouths the bait. It is of the utmost importance to retain your composure and not strike at this first hint. Have your drag set to under the lines breaking strain and take your choice of either of the following procedures: a) Play out another 1 to 2 metres of mainline to the fish or b) Jig the bait up and down or c) Do nothing and wait until the fish gets fair dinkum. This generally happens within a minute or two of the first encounter and generally comes in the form of a more prolonged and powerful pulling down of the mono mainline. At this stage strike in a firm flowing fashion, set the hook and start the fight. Keep a tight line and ride the resistance. Honestly, the bigger ones can pull so hard you may feel your bum's going to rise up and get dragged through your fingertips.

At other times such is the fighting power of the fish, you might start thinking it is taking you to a snag. The trick is too stay calm and ride out the initial resistance. Don't be too concerned with reeling it in at this stage. Keep pressure on the fish and gradually it will tire. Retrieve line in a firm controlled manner as it becomes available. At no time should any slack line be allowed. If given the leeway of a little slack line, Hairtail readly take the opportunity to dislodge the hook and spit it straight back at you. They are the Harry Houdinis of the marine world.

Although a bit frightening when you spot the teeth we suggest a good way to land Hairtail is toretrieve the mono mainline until the wire trace is in comfortable reach. Using a gloved hand get a good grip of the wire trace as far away from the teeth as possible. Using an old cloth such as an old T-shirt grip the fish firmly behind the head and gills. Take care to avoid the sharp spikes around the gills. Once you have a firm grip of the fish and have it under your control, lift it into the boat taking care that the tail is clear of all objects it could gain purchase on. At this stage a ''Danger" is real bloody handy. Gently lift the donger until it is in the vicinity of the Hairtails head, in one, two or three quick moves belt the crap out of the back of the fishes head. This seems to have a calming, relaxing effect on the fish and inmost cases it's now safe to handle and store. If you are into catch and release don't use the donger.

Most Hairtail diehards would agree that a berley would assist in getting them on the hop. Used sparingly a berley of chopped up stale pilchards, bread, fish heads or frames can be the difference between feast or famine. If you find they have suddenly gone off the bite, remain patient. Popular belief is that this species move in a circle when feeding in the deep holes. Hang in there for a while, have a cuppa or a beer and wait for them to make their way back to you.

They will take you on an emotional journey from ecstasy to sheer frustration. You will locate them around rock headwalls and mangrove lined banks having sharp drop offs from 2.4m to 5m approx. Also try around jetties, submerged logs and wherever green weed or moss is likely to grow. Green weed and sea cabbage are the preferred baits, but worms and nippers used at night have produced results. Care must be taken when handling, as this species have sharp gills. Best fished for in the daytime, they show no preference for clear, cloudy, overcast or raining conditions. Wind strengths up to 10 knots from any direction are ideal and make for comfortable angling conditions. The first 3 hours of the run in and the last 3 hours of the run out tides, between May and September are most productive.

Rods, Reels and Rigs

The recommended rod will be a classic slow taper blackfish rod with sloppy action (up to 3.5m), married with your choice of a 100m side cast reel, a centre pin reel and although not highly recommended a medium egg-beater reel capable of 130m by 4 to 5kg mono.

How to Catch Luderick

Angle around selected fishing spot until fish are located. When fish are in a feeding frenzy a bite will be indicated by the float sharply disappearing underwater. It is essential to strike fast and firm when this action occurs. Float action may be vastly different from the above when fish are in a quieter mood. Points to watch for are: a) Float top suddenly leaning differently, b) Lifting of float, c) Float top partially submerging ie.10m.

If any of these actions occur strike fast and firm as a fish could be the result. Due to the nature of areas luderick are commonly caught in, the art of reading your float when points a), b) and c) occur will only be learnt by experience and a sound knowledge of the area. Example - Float top suddenly leaning. Is it a fish or a snag?

Note

Opinion varies on when is the right time to strike for a blackfish. Some say the float must totally submerge, other opinion is to strike on any sudden variation of float action. After observing luderick feeding at the aquarium, the recommendation is to strike on variation of float action. It is highly recommended to use a landing net when attempting to land blackfish. A reasonable size to expect will be between 300 and 450g with a 1.4kg fish being a real bonus.

Float

Colour calibration on float tip is strictly for visual purposes. It makes detection of a bite much easier to see. Set float low in water to minimise water resistance.

Woolstopper

Wrap twice around mainline and tie two knots. Knots should be large enough so as not to go through float guide holes. Increase or decrease amount of splitshot until float is set to correct level. Splitshots other purpose is to hold the line vertical when fishing.N.B. Lighter trace designed to break first to minimise chance of float loss.

How to Berley

Quite often berley is used to attract and hold blackfish to and in the area being fished. An acceptable berley will contain a mix of one eighth green weed, one eighth bran and three quarters of damp sand. Finely chop or mince the greenweed and together with the bran, mix thoroughly and evenly through the damp sand. The berley should be damp enough so as to allow the mix to be formed into tennis ball shape and size. The idea is for the berley to sink as deep as possible prior to breaking up. Place the berley into the water in the vicinity you are fishing. Try fishing around your selected spot for 20 to 30 minutes prior to using berley. If no results are being achieved place four handfuls of berley into the water and repeat every 10 minutes thereafter until fish have been attracted to the area. This is only a general guide to the use of berley. Only with experience will you gain the knowledge of when and how much berley is required on any particular day to hopefully attract fish to and hold in your selected fishing spot.

Cleaning Your Luderick

Keep alive in a swim bag until ready to clean. Cut fishes throat and allow to bleed. If to be cooked whole, scale the fish and remove the gut. Inside the gut cavity you will see a black membrane.
This membrane has a bitter taste, so therefore it is very important to remove it. A nail brush is ideal for this task. If fillets are required simply scale and fillet the fish. For skinless fillets which are considered to be superior eating, leave the scales on, fillet and skin, making sure no black membrane is left intact. Rinse twice in clean salt water, drain of excess water before refrigeration. This process will ensure good eating quality.